Monday, May 20, 2013

Sirocco by Lucien Lelong (1934)

Sirocco by Lucien Lelong was introduced in 1934, during a period of great transition and innovation in both fashion and perfumery. The choice of name is intriguing, evocative, and deeply poetic. “Sirocco” (pronounced sih-ROCK-oh) is derived from the Italian word scirocco, which in turn traces its origin to the Arabic sharq meaning "east." It refers to a hot, dry wind that originates in the Sahara Desert and travels across the Mediterranean into Southern Europe. This wind is known for its intensity and unpredictability—at times suffocating, at times invigorating—and carries with it a sense of wild, exotic energy.

For Lucien Lelong, a couturier deeply attuned to nuance, elegance, and the art of suggestion, the name "Sirocco" would have conjured an air of distant lands, sensual climates, and untamed beauty. It speaks of movement and heat, of parched earth and sun-drenched silks, of something stirring and elemental. The word alone evokes feelings of languid sensuality, mystery, and a touch of danger—all themes that would have appealed to the sophisticated, worldly women of the interwar years.

Launched in 1934, Sirocco emerged during the later years of the Art Deco era, a time marked by bold geometries, streamlined luxury, and a fascination with the exotic and the modern. The world was still in the grip of the Great Depression, yet Parisian fashion houses like Lelong’s offered an escape through refinement and fantasy. The mood of the time was complex—women were becoming more independent, society was shifting, and there was a hunger for beauty and indulgence despite the economic realities. In fragrance, this translated to more daring compositions, richer florals, and deeper, more dramatic orientals. Sirocco embodied these contradictions: it was both grounded and ephemeral, rooted in natural materials yet abstract in impression.

Indiscret by Lucien Lelong (1935)

Indiscret by Lucien Lelong was launched in 1935, at a time when perfumery was evolving in bold new directions, and names carried as much narrative weight as the scents themselves. The name Indiscret (pronounced [ahn-dees-KREH]), is French, meaning “indiscreet” or “unreserved.” It suggests a whisper let loose, a confession too easily shared, or a moment of passion that breaks social codes. It implies daring, allure, and the kind of woman who doesn’t always play by the rules. Choosing such a name would have appealed to Lelong’s elegant yet self-assured clientele—women who were not only fashionable, but also quietly audacious.

Interestingly, the fragrance was introduced with the spelling Indiscret, and for the majority of its production this was the consistent form. However, during a brief period in the early to mid-1940s, vintage advertisements show the name spelled with an “e” at the end—Indiscrete. Whether this was a deliberate marketing choice, perhaps meant to make the name more accessible to an English-speaking audience, or simply an editorial inconsistency, remains uncertain. Yet the variation adds a subtle layer to the fragrance’s mystique—much like the name itself, a detail perhaps too easily revealed.

When Indiscret launched in the mid-1930s, the world was between wars, and Paris was enjoying a final golden age before the austerity of World War II. It was the heart of the Art Deco period—streamlined fashion, bold geometry, and a new modernity. Women's fashion had begun to reflect a greater fluidity and strength: longer, sinuous lines, sharp tailoring, and evening gowns with dramatic silhouettes. The perfumes of the period echoed these shifts. Chypres were increasingly in vogue—complex, layered compositions that blended florals with mosses, woods, and resins, capturing the duality of sophistication and sensuality.

Keep Perfume in Dark

A March 26, 1928 article in the Reading Eagle newspaper: "KEEP PERFUME IN DARK, PARISIAN ADVISES. Air and sunlight may change finest od...